October 18, 2007
Ramadan's Over and Winter Begins
Ramadan has passed without a post, so apologize for that. I promise more in a couple weeks when things begin to slow down as the cold sets in and life relaxes. Above is a photo showcasing the bounty of Ramadan food at a neighbors, moments before fast was broken.
September 14, 2007
Quote of the Week
Rasheed in Saidia
The End of the Tourist Season
Yaheah, my good friend and barber, moved his shop back to its permanent location in the Taznight area. Out-of-town owners from Jerada, Mrija, and elsewhere returned to their respective communities.
Below is a photo of the Cascades d’Ouzoud near Marrakesh taken by PCV Connie Genger earlier this summer. It looks like fair competition for Gafait with the bridge, rafts and assortment of people.
Parliamentary Elections
The secular Istiqlal party of the ruling coalition won 52 of the 325 seats, while the Islamic-leaning Justice and Development Party (PJD) won 47 seats. The PJD was expected to win as many as 80 seats, running on an anti-corruption platform, but fell short of those predictions.
For a short synopsis of the elections, look here.
Peace Corps in Real Time
I had problems with managing the sound, I could be heard but could not hear, so had to talk by phone for most of our conversation.
September 4, 2007
Great Lightining and Blue Skies
PCV Andrew Cyr took this photo, one of my favorites. I just love the natural lighting here, particularly in the evenings. And Lindsey used to say that the sky is bluer in Morocco, which I always thought was funny. Then yesterday, justifiable by no obvious climatic or weather related phenomenon to someone who knows nothing about the previous, I walked out of the house, looked up at royal blue sky, and happily ate crow.
Quote of the Week
Nothing can happen to any human being outside the experience which is natural to humans -- an ox too experiences nothing foreign to the nature of oxen, a vine nothing foreign to the nature of vines, a stone nothing outside the property of a stone. So if each thing experiences what is usual and natural for it, why should you complain? Universal nature has brought you nothing you can't endure.
-from Marcus Aurelius' Meditations
(Stone writings at Volubilis)
Wedding Snapshots
A friend Mohammed taking a photo of his cousin and groom Hafil arriving on horse. Prior to attending the wedding, I was debating rather to take both my camera and camcorder, after I was told that maybe no one was going to bring a camcorder. I decided against it, wisely, and as Hafil approached the ceremony at dusk, half a dozen camcorders and many cameras and camera phones came out from an ebullient paparazzi of friends and family members.
Wedding Bells
The wedding ceremony that I attended along with other men included dancing, eating, fundraising for the newly married (isn't this just a given at all weddings), and general socializing. The women had their night together the previous evening. Friends and family started prepping for the ceremony in mid afternoon, the ceremony began at dusk with a caravan of cars returning from the mausoleum of Sidi Hamza near the Kaid's office. I left at approximately 11 PM and the festivities probably continued till 2 AM.
(Note: there are two mausoleums in Gafait, the other one being named after Ben Abdelrahman. In general, mausoleums in Morocco are small shrines housing the remains of important local Islamic leaders from the past. And in many cases, although I have not validated this statement with these two particular men, these were Islamic missionaries, spreading Islam through N. Africa centuries before and combating or replacing the indigenous Berber's paganism).
The groom arriving by horse at the wedding reception.
Members of the band (includes percussion and a wood instrument resembling a clarinet), the wedding czar (who solicited money for the couple later in the night), and the wedding singer.
Line dancing with canes, drums, and some men that really know how to dance, which is mostly in the shoulders and hips. Sometimes in large groups of 6-10 like that pictured, but more often in smaller groups, men stand in front of the audience and entertain their friends. I always deftly avoid dancing at weddings. I do enough already to embarrass and bring attention to myself.
September 3, 2007
Rasheed in Volubilis
August 27, 2007
Quote of the Week
-from the 1995 Nobel Lecture of poet Seamus Heaney, found here.
Heaney ends the next paragraph with the following salient words, which seem timely in the current zeitgeist of fear and moat building.
“The birth of the future we desire is surely in the contraction which that terrified Catholic felt on the roadside when another hand gripped his hand, not in the gunfire that followed, so absolute and so desolate, if also so much a part of the music of what happens.”
August 22, 2007
Wizard of Oz in Oujda
Several months ago I stayed with my neighbor Meddi and his family in Oujda, where he’s a school teacher for most of the year. On a satellite TVwith more than 200 channels, less than 10 of which are in English, we found the original “Wizard of Oz” being shown with Arabic subtitles. I then took the following photo, showing Oumayma watching this classic.
A month later, I met my parents in London for a few days before traveling back to Morocco, where we spent more than a week traveling around. In London, we saw “Wicked,” an excellent play adapted from the Oz storyline.
Rasheed in Gafait
Upon ending her service and leaving Morocco in June, Sumona gave me some tea and a priceless gift, a Rasheed Wallace bobbing head doll. Mr. Wallace is one of her favorites on her home state team, da Pistons, and after learning this fact last year, it became a talking point from time to time. As one of the NBA’s most emotional players and recipient of the most technical fouls, he provides constant fodder.
I told Sumona I would take a series of candid photos of Rasheed while traveling around Morocco, to be later collected into a coffee table book. Well, here’s photo #1 of Rasheed taking several months ago. Several more photos have been taken since then and will be posted in the coming weeks.
August 21, 2007
Say Hello, Wave Goodbye
My friends keep leaving me. My best friend in Morocco and site mate Graham left many months ago for greener fields in England. Two close friends Sumona and Lindsey finished their service in June and have returned to the states. Jessie, a good friend and cheerleader for our region, left in July.
I miss these friends. Others fill in but can’t replace. I have fewer people to text message with Sumona and Lindsey gone. Little messages like “Grandma told me the best joke about a cow and a donkey giving birth to a hunting dog this morning over tea. tc” can have real meaning in the dead of winter. Or my favorite “What do you do..” always prefaces candid and often humorous lines.
I’ve had many moments that you want to talk with someone about and it’s nice to have someone close in proximity and friendship to talk with them about. So here’s to departed friends. We'll see each other again.
Caterpillars in the Cemetery
Quote of the Week
uncivilized the man, the surer he is that he knows precisely what
is right and what is wrong. All human progress, even in morals,
has been the work of men who have doubted the current moral
values, not of men who have whooped them up and tried to
enforce them. The truly civilized man is always skeptical and
tolerant, in this field as in all others. His culture is based on 'I am
not too sure.'"
-Early 20th century critic H. L. Mencken.
Figuig Palms
Swimming in Figuig
A place estimated to be several hundred years old in the desert town of Figuig, where I taught for 2 weeks at a English language camp. Built around an underground spring, the water flows into this walled pool, where local men come to bathe and relax, then is directed into fields in the area through a complex irrigation system.
Daily Routines: My Swimming Spot
Here's my swimming spot at the nearby river. This watering hole is probably 6 ft deep in an area of probably 10 ft squared next to the ledge, which makes it great for diving. Otherwise much of the river is as shallow as a bathtub.
This area has become a little busy this summer and I like a tranquil place to swim, so I've changed my hours, swimming more in the morning or at dusk, as pictured below and upstream, where I can stretch out more and swim for 25 meters.
Scorpions and Rational Thought
The scorpions have come back in greater abundance this summer. Last year, I found two in my house, while last week in one evening, I found three; one in the bathroom sink, another in the bedroom, and the last in the kitchen. It probably makes for a good excuse to sleep on the terrace. Or also because the interior of the house is like an oven at night after a hot day.
In the households of most of my neighbors, some family member has been stung this summer by a scorpion, with most similar to the one pictured above. My neighbor Bachere was stung a couple weeks ago and said he was up all night screaming. Although not deadly except sometimes with the young and old, they are the formidable opponent of man in my site. Near Marrakesh last month, a man was killed by a more deadly type of scorpion that simply looks vicious. The headlines in the national papers in the days that followed included complaints from residents about inadequate health facilities.
August 8, 2007
Quote of the Week
King James VI
Lazy Summer Days Intensified
Environmental Education Programming
-Summer Booth: make sure there’s enough handouts, etc
-Club: advertise
-Mural: no funding yet, delay project till spring
Vetiver Wastewater Management Project
-Approval to lay 6-8 rows of vetiver/rock barriers through mile long polluted stream.
-Concerned about vetiver runoff in flood, no soil to grow in. Not a big issue
-Secure rocks with chain link, vetiver in barrels
Tree Planting
-Fall at school (small #), Spring in community (5000)
-Need to map houses, allot tree amounts (work with Hamada)
-Wanting olive, almond, and fruit trees
Rosemary and Cheese Co-ops
-Talk with Kareem about cheese factory products marketing, design, and advertising
-Holland NGO Human Force has begun marketing, Talk with them.
-Rosemary- 20k hectares up for sale and no buyer. Need interest from someone locally- then will start project
-Get Paula info and photos of new rosemary building and schedule tentative date for her visit.
Ecotourism
-Create potential plan and itinerary for Summer 08
-Give to Mo to revise, translate to French
-Give to association to act on
Artisans
-Found artisans in town; talk to them about assisting and connect with Kareem.
Toilet project
-Plans drawn for mosque toilet, need to implement
-Push septic design, but probably settle for raised latrine
-Stress seriousness of shallow water table
GPS Training Followup
-Give new MapInfo to EF tech's and answer ?s.
Zimbabwe Hut
-Write grant, gather materials, and start project with Hassan after Ramadan.
SIBE EE posters
-Gather gazelle materials and discuss with Justin.
Plant survey of Gafait
-Photos gathered, consolidate into book with FileMaker, and present to EF.
The Dogs Bark...
Whew... I’ve been away from this blog for some time. Regular posting ended in mid April. I have a list of excuses I think I could make; work, no computer until recently, several visits from parents and friends, etc but overall, I’ve just felt apathy towards writing of late. Indolence is my real reason, mixed with a desire to do something else. Take a walk, cook, clean (hard to believe, yes!) drink tea, read, or swim. Mostly anything but sitting in front of a computer and typing, or watching movies, or wondering how three Journey songs arrived in my iTunes playlist “25 most played.”
In the time between nice, cool Spring to scorched earth Summer, life has been busy and full. Fulfilling now belies a heat induced slow August.
An old Arabic proverb says “The dogs bark, but the caravan moves on." Well, life continues to be a series of forward motions. And to live each day new, not returning to the past or obsessing over the future is a life lived well. And to hear similar words echoed recently by the great radio host Diane Rehm on a broadcast and by my Grandma Ocie in a phone conversation can lead me to fall in love with those two women all over again.
(Photo is of the straight road to Figuig).
June 6, 2007
Quote of the Week
-poet Gary Snider
Snider has an interesting story. He started out as one of the Beat writers of the 1950s in San Fransico, then left in '56 and went to Japan where he spent the next twelve years in a monastery, studying Buddhism.
I've haven't posted anything for over a month. Sorry, I've been extremely busy, maybe becoming a little schizophrenic from work. For the most part, I enjoy the energy that comes from multitasking in the states; doing several jobs at once and getting more work done. Resources and materials are more readily available, transportation is easy, and a protestant work ethic means people better understand a busy face. Multitasking does not transfer to Morocco as easily, but maybe its better. We work too much and don't allow ourselves to enjoy life daily. I believe it was Heinrich Heine who said that he thought a blaspheming Frenchman was a more pleasant object to God than a praying Englishman.
People here do a good job of living in the moment, this coming in most part from a fatalistic paradigm. I need to absorb more of the latter. I'll post more shortly.
April 22, 2007
April 16, 2007
Quote of the week
in bulk, doth make man better be,
or standing long an oak, three hundred year,
to fall a log at last, dry, bald and sere:
a lily of a day,
is fairer far in May,
although it fall and die that night;
it was the plant and flower of light.
In small proportions we just beauties see,
and in short measures, life may perfect be."
-poet Benjamin Jonson
April 8, 2007
Quote of the week
“Without realizing it, the individual composes his life according to the laws of beauty even in times of greatest distress.”
-Czech author Milan Kundera, who is too easy to quote. Some more:
“Happiness is the longing for repetition.”
“The sound of laughter is like the vaulted dome of a temple of happiness.”
“The struggle of man against power is the struggle of memory against forgetting.”
“Metaphors are dangerous. Love begins with a metaphor. Which is to say, love begins at the point when a woman enters her first word into our poetic memory.”
Kundera's metaphors are beautiful and his existentialism shines throughout his writing.
April 7, 2007
Another Strike
"The bill, which introduces a point-record driving license system, breath analyzing tests and fines up to USD 350, in addition to the incrimination of some infractions especially in serious injuries and death cases, has sparked off much debate in parliament circles as well as the uproar of several transport trade unions, who started, on Monday, a 48-hour strike."And that strike still continues; the bill's future unresolved. If implemented, the point system would allow authorities to take away the license of poor drivers who have been in accidents, fined, etc in rank order. Critics say it will lead to corruption and that it threatens large single income families where the lone breadwinner is a transit driver. From another source,
By slaughter, he's referring to this"Faced with the unavailability of taxis and buses, travellers in both urban and rural areas have been paying exorbitant prices for non approved carriers. According to managers in the key ports of Casablanca and Kenitra, the lack of lorries is delaying the delivery of goods. The prices of vegetables, fruit and basic foodstuffs have risen steadily and many observers feel the situation could worsen over the next few days...
El Bouzid Khallouf, who is in his fifties and owns a lorry, thinks this new law will have to be revised before it can be adopted. "This move to take away drivers’ licences is only likely to encourage even more corruption. We don’t want to be bribing the police and traffic officers to be able to drive around in peace." Yassine, a Casablanca taxi driver, feels that confiscating driving licences poses a real threat to the profession. "Given the mediocre earnings we receive each month, we refuse to be deprived of our licences every now and then for mistakes we rarely, if ever, make...
While waiting for a solution to the conflict, unionists say they are prepared to continue the strike until they get their message across. In their view, the fight against road traffic accidents should be directed not at repressing drivers, but at raising traffic control standards and improving the social and pay conditions for those working in the transport sector.
Transport Minister Karim Ghellab insisted that he will not give in to what he termed as blackmail. He stated that his aim is to make the roads safer by reducing the "slaughter" taking place on Morocco’s highways."
I've always thought the greatest security risk in Morocco is transportation. It seems like the government is trying to reduce that risk, but I can understand where transit workers are coming from. They're stubborn because of the risk associated with change."Morocco is among the worst countries in terms of road safety, as 10 people are killed every day and USD 1.3 billion lost every year.
Last year, road accidents claimed 3,622 lives, i.e. a 4.17% increase compared to 2005. Some 56,426 accidents were recorded during the same period, that is a 5.22% increase compared to the previous year."
The Prophet's Birthday
Figuig's a very intriguing place to say the least. Camp has been a great experience and has just concluded today, hamdullah. It's nice to meet and greet campers and have them be thankful for the experience, but a week with 100 high school aged students is a long week. I have a few stories to tell and like the postponed writings of last months Sahara trip, I'll put them up soon.
March 31, 2007
Figuig- SE Morocco
March 30, 2007
The Coal Wagons A Coming
Quote of the Week
-2008 presidentail candidate John Edwards in a recent interview. Edwards seems to be running an updated, populist campaign based on admitting mistakes, promoting universal healthcare, and making U.S. poverty a platform issue. Some might call it brave or gutsy and its sad to think such things would be considered so.
At the End of the Road
The weathers beautiful here, an improvement from the wind, wind, and rain of the last two weeks up North that kept blowing over the bamboo fence in my yard. I'm here in Figuig for the next 8 days for an English training camp with a couple other volunteers and Moroccan staff. Starting tommorrow, we're expecting around 100 campers from the region, with a daily schedule from 7 AM exercises to 10 pm clubs and activities. When questioned about the feasibility of a 15 hour day supervising high school age students, the local delegate responded "but this is Figuig, people only sleep for 3 hours here." Yes, three hours in the summer heat with car horns annoucing local weddings, but not in other seasons. Otherwise, these Figuigi's are to be praised for bringing the big top to this isolated nest. Furthermore, after subtracting 3 hours for lunch and 2 for tea breaks, the schedule was looking more manageable. And coordinating instructions in English instead of caveman Arabic should be a welcome relief.
My English classes will be environmentally theme based and with students rotating, we'll be talking about soils, water systems, plants, animals, and ecosystems over the next week. I'll try to keep you all informed.
UPDATE: When I say "caveman Arabic," I'm referring to how I speak the language; it's not a reference to the language. Arabic is a beautiful and rich language. It's easy to be misinterpreted in the Near East-West relationship, especially when perceptions masquerade as understanding. To say "I watch Al Jazeera (or Al Jazeera English) or Fox News and I know the truth" is to be dubed. To say "I see scantily clad American women or those fully covered on the TV and know what's best" is to be naive.. or worse.
Yeserday while putting up a welcome banner at the Figuig youth center, a student walked up to me and asked me about the star that took the place of the 'O' in the blue lettered 'Welcome.'
"Is that blue star the Moroccan star?" (The one featured in the Moroccan flag is green).
"No.. maybe.. it's just a star."
"Is it the star of Israel?"
"No, no. It's not Israeli just because it's blue."
Israeli's don't own blue stars and Moroccans green ones.
March 21, 2007
Quote of the Week
C. S. Lewis in “The Screwtape Letters”
March 16, 2007
Strike Strike Strike
After returning to Jerada and staying for Sunday souk, I got stuck there because of a national transit strike that still continues five days later. After 48 hours of strike, they extended it for another 72 on Tuesday. Yesterday, all regions of Morocco west of Taza had ended reach an agreement, ending the strike. The Orient region continues to protest, so I’m left in limbo.
I’ve been told that the transit workers striked to reduce fines, increase wages, and repeal a new “Road Code” bill that would require stricter safety standards. Several years ago, grand taxi drivers went on strike when the government tried to reduce their passenger limit from six to four. They perservered and continue to squeeze six.
So, I’ve been staying with Kareem this week, spending my time at the cafe, cyber and the parks department. I’ve also filled time by filling out my NCAA bracket. Notables: I have Michigan State and Crieghton in the Sweet 16; Texas, Louisville, Florida, and Kansas in the Final Four, and Florida repeating.
In all, Morocco normally operates at 80% for me. When I go into the cyber to use a computer, something inevitable doesn’t work like the mouse, buttons are stuck, or the W key is missing. Overall, the product works satisfactory as does the country. This week, that 80% feels like its been halved. In addition to no transport, the area was without internet connection for four days and power for two.
In hindsight, I could have hitched a ride at the beginning of the week back to site. However, we’re wanting (and still hedging) to go to Fes this weekend and I felt that I would have more trouble exiting Gafait then I would the much larger Jerada. Unlike many parts of Africa, Morocco does have good, reliable transportation (ie the train). But like any public transportation, you’re at the mercy of the providers.
March 14, 2007
Favorite Books
In country, our library is fairly vast when combined with the regional swap shop we’ve established, and Graham has a nice library if you exclude his Tom Clancy and Co. grocery store collection. Also, books are collateral here; “I’ll trade you my ‘Crime and Punishment’ for ‘Divine Secrets of the Ya-Ya Sisterhood’ (which was excellent) and that Bill Bryson book.”
That said, here’s the top five books I’ve read in the last year.
The Namesake by Jhumpa Lahiri
I read this before later reading her pulitizer prize winning “Interperter of Maladies.” I thought this was a better book and showcases the talent of Indian writers (like V.S Naipaul, Salman Rushdie, Arundhati Roy, Rohinton Mistry, etc) when writing about issues like imigration, colonialism, diversity, and religion.
The Satanic Verses by Salman Rushdie
This book came to me with a brown paper book jacket hiding the title and name. It’s unlikely that anyone near me would now recognize the author or his infamous book, which earned him a fatwa from Ayotollah Khomeini in 1989, but was rescinded several years ago. In all, Rushdie is a brilliant writer. His writing, which has been referred to as pidgin English, combined with his understanding of multiculturalism, makes for great lyrical prose.
Middlesex by Jeffrey Eugenides
A pulitizer prize winning novel about a transsexual’s upbringing.
Atlas Shrugged by Ayn Rand
Always a recognized book for me with its cover design of Atlas, this book really peaked my interest when I saw this top 100 list of novels comparing books chosen by a publishers board with those of its readers. While Ayn Rand dominated the reader’s list, she wasn’t mentioned in the boards list. Probably less of a snub, more an egotists exaggeration, its still an excellent read for understanding the philosophy of objectivism, a religion onto itself.
The Master and Margarita by Mikhail Bulgakov
A great satirical novel about the Devil visiting Moscow in the 30s. Also, an indictment of Stalinist Russia. However, it ranks below my favorites from fellow countrymen Tolstoy, Dostoevsky, and Chekhov written the century before.
March 13, 2007
Wild Fox Onions
UPDATE: I thought this was a pig onion, but I stand corrected. Related, I have only see 1 fox in country, down South, but have heard many incidents of wild boars in the Orient. Near Jerada, they shoot them while they're trapped in Gafait. Both actions are illegal.