September 14, 2007

Quote of the Week

"Seven blunders of the world that lead to violence: wealth without work, pleasure without conscience, knowledge without character, commerce without morality, science without humanity, worship without sacrifice, politics without principle."
-Mahatma Gandhi

Rasheed in Saidia

Rasheed on Saidia beach midsummer while Josh looks on in jealously. Don't hate Josh, don't hate! Yet, I can understand. It's hard not to be green-eyed towards a man like Rasheed.

The End of the Tourist Season

The tourist season in Gafait officially ended last week, although the largest and nicest café will stay open during Ramadan to house entertainment and late night coffee socialites. Store owners began closing their shops, taking away shop materials and food items.

Yaheah, my good friend and barber, moved his shop back to its permanent location in the Taznight area. Out-of-town owners from Jerada, Mrija, and elsewhere returned to their respective communities.

Below is a photo of the Cascades d’Ouzoud near Marrakesh taken by PCV Connie Genger earlier this summer. It looks like fair competition for Gafait with the bridge, rafts and assortment of people.

Parliamentary Elections

In the recent parliamentary elections held last Friday, 37% of eligible Moroccan voters went to the ballots. In all, there are 31 political parties in the country and 27 were accounted for in nearby Jerada.

The secular Istiqlal party of the ruling coalition won 52 of the 325 seats, while the Islamic-leaning Justice and Development Party (PJD) won 47 seats. The PJD was expected to win as many as 80 seats, running on an anti-corruption platform, but fell short of those predictions.

For a short synopsis of the elections, look here.

Peace Corps in Real Time

I talked with my family; brothers, mother, father, sister-in-laws, and nieces for the first time via video last Monday on Labor Day. A time for picnics and golf tournaments in the states, I did not celebrate the holiday here. However, setting your own daily itinerary most days probably offsets that.

I had problems with managing the sound, I could be heard but could not hear, so had to talk by phone for most of our conversation.

September 4, 2007

Great Lightining and Blue Skies


PCV Andrew Cyr took this photo, one of my favorites. I just love the natural lighting here, particularly in the evenings. And Lindsey used to say that the sky is bluer in Morocco, which I always thought was funny. Then yesterday, justifiable by no obvious climatic or weather related phenomenon to someone who knows nothing about the previous, I walked out of the house, looked up at royal blue sky, and happily ate crow.

Quote of the Week


Nothing can happen to any human being outside the experience which is natural to humans -- an ox too experiences nothing foreign to the nature of oxen, a vine nothing foreign to the nature of vines, a stone nothing outside the property of a stone. So if each thing experiences what is usual and natural for it, why should you complain? Universal nature has brought you nothing you can't endure.
-from Marcus Aurelius' Meditations

(Stone writings at Volubilis)

Wedding Snapshots


A friend Mohammed taking a photo of his cousin and groom Hafil arriving on horse. Prior to attending the wedding, I was debating rather to take both my camera and camcorder, after I was told that maybe no one was going to bring a camcorder. I decided against it, wisely, and as Hafil approached the ceremony at dusk, half a dozen camcorders and many cameras and camera phones came out from an ebullient paparazzi of friends and family members.

Wedding Bells

I attended a wedding of a friend, Hafil, on the West side of town in the old district of Harrash two weeks ago. With the surname Hamzaoui, Hafil has an extended family of maybe 250 in Gafait. I like to joke sometimes and say that everyone in Gafait is Hamzaoui.

The wedding ceremony that I attended along with other men included dancing, eating, fundraising for the newly married (isn't this just a given at all weddings), and general socializing. The women had their night together the previous evening. Friends and family started prepping for the ceremony in mid afternoon, the ceremony began at dusk with a caravan of cars returning from the mausoleum of Sidi Hamza near the Kaid's office. I left at approximately 11 PM and the festivities probably continued till 2 AM.

(Note: there are two mausoleums in Gafait, the other one being named after Ben Abdelrahman. In general, mausoleums in Morocco are small shrines housing the remains of important local Islamic leaders from the past. And in many cases, although I have not validated this statement with these two particular men, these were Islamic missionaries, spreading Islam through N. Africa centuries before and combating or replacing the indigenous Berber's paganism).
The groom arriving by horse at the wedding reception.
Members of the band (includes percussion and a wood instrument resembling a clarinet), the wedding czar (who solicited money for the couple later in the night), and the wedding singer.
Line dancing with canes, drums, and some men that really know how to dance, which is mostly in the shoulders and hips. Sometimes in large groups of 6-10 like that pictured, but more often in smaller groups, men stand in front of the audience and entertain their friends. I always deftly avoid dancing at weddings. I do enough already to embarrass and bring attention to myself.

September 3, 2007

Rasheed in Volubilis


Rasheed in front of some Roman columns outside of Meknes dating back to the 2nd and 3rd centuries. My Lonely Planet guide states that the site was settled even earlier by Carthaginian traders. At it's peak, the city housed 20,000 people.