Figuig- SE Morocco

I visited the water and forest department in Figuig yesterday to look at their info kiosks and provide input on ways to fill the interior of an empty building. While there, I looked at one of the maps of the local reserve and thought the geopolitics of Figuig's placement next to Algeria quite entertaining. When sitting on the beach in Saida, we're often amused to look at Algerians swimming in the next beach over, seperated by flags and border guards. Saida, however, has nothing on Algeria. After the border was closed in 1994, those unfortunate family members or friends living just East of Figuig (approximately 2 km) were seperated from their loved ones. When asked what improvements they would like made in the community, many residents first response is an open border. In the meantime, some will cross the border illegally at night, just like those petrol barons I know up North.

The Coal Wagons A Coming

There's 3 new signs like this posted in Jerada representing a donkey or mule drawn wagon. In close proximity to most cities and towns, vehicles share road space with wagons transporting souk goods, produce, etc. In Jerada, however, most wagons are carrying coal from the remains of the French turned Moroccan mines closed two decades ago, with drivers' faces and clothing blackened. They're transporting the coal outside of town, where a full load can fetch 500 Dhms. Therefore, these signs for me memoralize those men with charred faces.

Quote of the Week

"I think that Jesus would be disappointed in our ignoring the plight of those around us who are suffering and our focus on our own selfish short-term needs. I think he would be appalled, actually."

-2008 presidentail candidate John Edwards in a recent interview. Edwards seems to be running an updated, populist campaign based on admitting mistakes, promoting universal healthcare, and making U.S. poverty a platform issue. Some might call it brave or gutsy and its sad to think such things would be considered so.

At the End of the Road

Excuse my Arabic or your possible word association, but I'm currently "fuq Fuigig" (on top of Figuig) or "on top of the world" in world's fair Americana. I'm in the southeast corner of Morocco in Figuig, population 16,000, 2 km away on three sides from the Algerian border, and 100 km from the closest Moroccan town. It's geopolitically a border pimple, a town that sustains itself from the governments desire to mark its boundaries with neighboring rival Algeria. Its also a tourist haven (particularly with the French) for its date palmaries and desert feel. Before air travel, it was the last stop in Morocco for those faithful making the long pilgrimage to Mecca.

The weathers beautiful here, an improvement from the wind, wind, and rain of the last two weeks up North that kept blowing over the bamboo fence in my yard. I'm here in Figuig for the next 8 days for an English training camp with a couple other volunteers and Moroccan staff. Starting tommorrow, we're expecting around 100 campers from the region, with a daily schedule from 7 AM exercises to 10 pm clubs and activities. When questioned about the feasibility of a 15 hour day supervising high school age students, the local delegate responded "but this is Figuig, people only sleep for 3 hours here." Yes, three hours in the summer heat with car horns annoucing local weddings, but not in other seasons. Otherwise, these Figuigi's are to be praised for bringing the big top to this isolated nest. Furthermore, after subtracting 3 hours for lunch and 2 for tea breaks, the schedule was looking more manageable. And coordinating instructions in English instead of caveman Arabic should be a welcome relief.

My English classes will be environmentally theme based and with students rotating, we'll be talking about soils, water systems, plants, animals, and ecosystems over the next week. I'll try to keep you all informed.

UPDATE: When I say "caveman Arabic," I'm referring to how I speak the language; it's not a reference to the language. Arabic is a beautiful and rich language. It's easy to be misinterpreted in the Near East-West relationship, especially when perceptions masquerade as understanding. To say "I watch Al Jazeera (or Al Jazeera English) or Fox News and I know the truth" is to be dubed. To say "I see scantily clad American women or those fully covered on the TV and know what's best" is to be naive.. or worse.

Yeserday while putting up a welcome banner at the Figuig youth center, a student walked up to me and asked me about the star that took the place of the 'O' in the blue lettered 'Welcome.'

"Is that blue star the Moroccan star?" (The one featured in the Moroccan flag is green).
"No.. maybe.. it's just a star."
"Is it the star of Israel?"
"No, no. It's not Israeli just because it's blue."

Israeli's don't own blue stars and Moroccans green ones.

Quote of the Week

“The greatest evil is not now done in those sordid 'dens of crime' that Dickens loved to paint . . . it is conceived and ordered (moved, seconded, carried, and minuted) in clear, carpeted, warmed, and well-lighted offices by quiet men with white collars and cut fingernails and smooth-shaven cheeks who do not need to raise their voice.”

C. S. Lewis in “The Screwtape Letters”

Strike Strike Strike

It’s been a strange week. Last Friday, I took a day trip to Oujda to meet with a consultant from CARE France (a branch of the large US NGO) about water systems, specifically wastewater management in Gafait. It was a productive meeting, although we ultimately didn’t connect because he was looking for an infrastructure project. Gafait’s water system was too developed. We were able to dive into other topics including his experiences from 20+ years in development work in Rwanda, Sudan, Kenya, Israel, etc.

After returning to Jerada and staying for Sunday souk, I got stuck there because of a national transit strike that still continues five days later. After 48 hours of strike, they extended it for another 72 on Tuesday. Yesterday, all regions of Morocco west of Taza had ended reach an agreement, ending the strike. The Orient region continues to protest, so I’m left in limbo.

I’ve been told that the transit workers striked to reduce fines, increase wages, and repeal a new “Road Code” bill that would require stricter safety standards. Several years ago, grand taxi drivers went on strike when the government tried to reduce their passenger limit from six to four. They perservered and continue to squeeze six.

So, I’ve been staying with Kareem this week, spending my time at the cafe, cyber and the parks department. I’ve also filled time by filling out my NCAA bracket. Notables: I have Michigan State and Crieghton in the Sweet 16; Texas, Louisville, Florida, and Kansas in the Final Four, and Florida repeating.

In all, Morocco normally operates at 80% for me. When I go into the cyber to use a computer, something inevitable doesn’t work like the mouse, buttons are stuck, or the W key is missing. Overall, the product works satisfactory as does the country. This week, that 80% feels like its been halved. In addition to no transport, the area was without internet connection for four days and power for two.

In hindsight, I could have hitched a ride at the beginning of the week back to site. However, we’re wanting (and still hedging) to go to Fes this weekend and I felt that I would have more trouble exiting Gafait then I would the much larger Jerada. Unlike many parts of Africa, Morocco does have good, reliable transportation (ie the train). But like any public transportation, you’re at the mercy of the providers.

Favorite Books

March marks a year for me in Morocco and a years worth of completed books. With little entertainment and lots of time on my hands, I was able to check a lot off the list. My parents sent over 30 lbs of classics I had stashed away pre-departure in August and they’ll be bringing more this Summer- after my brother collects on a list of Dover Thrifts.

In country, our library is fairly vast when combined with the regional swap shop we’ve established, and Graham has a nice library if you exclude his Tom Clancy and Co. grocery store collection. Also, books are collateral here; “I’ll trade you my ‘Crime and Punishment’ for ‘Divine Secrets of the Ya-Ya Sisterhood’ (which was excellent) and that Bill Bryson book.”

That said, here’s the top five books I’ve read in the last year.

The Namesake by Jhumpa Lahiri
I read this before later reading her pulitizer prize winning “Interperter of Maladies.” I thought this was a better book and showcases the talent of Indian writers (like V.S Naipaul, Salman Rushdie, Arundhati Roy, Rohinton Mistry, etc) when writing about issues like imigration, colonialism, diversity, and religion.

The Satanic Verses by Salman Rushdie
This book came to me with a brown paper book jacket hiding the title and name. It’s unlikely that anyone near me would now recognize the author or his infamous book, which earned him a fatwa from Ayotollah Khomeini in 1989, but was rescinded several years ago. In all, Rushdie is a brilliant writer. His writing, which has been referred to as pidgin English, combined with his understanding of multiculturalism, makes for great lyrical prose.

Middlesex by Jeffrey Eugenides
A pulitizer prize winning novel about a transsexual’s upbringing.

Atlas Shrugged by Ayn Rand
Always a recognized book for me with its cover design of Atlas, this book really peaked my interest when I saw this top 100 list of novels comparing books chosen by a publishers board with those of its readers. While Ayn Rand dominated the reader’s list, she wasn’t mentioned in the boards list. Probably less of a snub, more an egotists exaggeration, its still an excellent read for understanding the philosophy of objectivism, a religion onto itself.

The Master and Margarita by Mikhail Bulgakov
A great satirical novel about the Devil visiting Moscow in the 30s. Also, an indictment of Stalinist Russia. However, it ranks below my favorites from fellow countrymen Tolstoy, Dostoevsky, and Chekhov written the century before.

Wild Fox Onions

These are abundant in the Orient region and we tried them once in the survivalist mentality that if we were starving, would it sustain us? No, they're almost inedible. Maybe that's why there's so ubiquitous.

UPDATE: I thought this was a pig onion, but I stand corrected. Related, I have only see 1 fox in country, down South, but have heard many incidents of wild boars in the Orient. Near Jerada, they shoot them while they're trapped in Gafait. Both actions are illegal.

Camels and Donkeys

My niece Elizabeth asked a couple months ago if I had ridden a donkey or camel. I have ridden donkeys several times, but the Sahara trip was my first camel experience. Camels are a strange looking creature, they're skinny legs with large soft, padded feet to the ugliest tail that I've ever seen. However, every physical feature seems to have a necessary purpose, especially in the rugged Sahara. Down South they sell camel meat as a delicacy, often throwing in a hunk of hump, which is white like cheese and pure fat.

One of the more remarkable scenes on my last trip was seeing camel backed tourists in the Sahara hauling snow skis, which we're used for sand skiing juxtaposed with donkeys being used as transit on the ski slopes near Marrakesh to get from one lift to another.

Quote of the Week

"History says, don't hope on this side of the grave. But then, once in a lifetime the longed for tidal wave of justice can rise up, and hope and history rhyme."

-author Seamus Heaney, from "The Cure at Troy"

Sahara Trip